von Dave McIntyre

★ ★ ¹/₂

Loisium, Kamptal, Austria, $22

A good Grüner tastes almost like spring water; there’s a purity to its expression that seems to come from the earth. Look also for talclike minerality with hints of white flowers and citrusy herbs. The distributor is about to switch to the 2013 vintage, which I have not tasted, but this is one of my favorite Austrian wines year after year, and 2013 was a terrific vintage. ABV: 13.5 percent.

Siema in the District and Maryland: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits; on the list at Kafe Leopold Konditorei, Pearl Dive Oyster Bar, the Source by Wolfgang Puck. Available in Maryland at Balducci’s in Bethesda, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, the Wine Bin in Ellicott City. Select in Virginia: Available at Arrowine and Cheese and Twisted Vines in Arlington, Balducci’s (Alexandria, McLean), Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Unwined (Alexandria, Belleview), Wegmans (various locations), Wine Cabinet in Reston; on the list at Acacia in Richmond, Screwtop Wine Bar in Arlington, Vinifera Wine Bar and Bistro in Reston.